Here’s the step-by-step guide on how to repotting Cymbidium Orchids: Cymbidiums are stunning orchid family blooming plants with several brilliant flowers placed on unbranched stalks. These orchids are a preferred choice for the winter greenhouse. During the winter, they are also quite popular as cut flowers. They usually bloom between the end of January and the beginning of March, when not much else is. If the potting media is kept moist, the blossoms can endure six to eight weeks when they are in bloom. The blooms usually dry out and fall off if you let the medium get too dry.
While not under direct sunshine, as they could be in their natural home in east India and the Himalayas, cymbidiums prefer bright light. The leaves will usually dry out and become yellow if they are exposed to direct sunlight. In my south-east facing greenhouse, I’ve discovered that a shelf allows the plants to receive winter morning sun, but by early afternoon they are in the shade. The plants reside in the patio’s summertime shade under a big tree.
The majority of the time throughout the summer, the plants are watered by soaking them for about 10 minutes in a pot of water. I fill a bucket with rainwater. Here, the rainfall is somewhat acidic, which is perfect for the plants. You should water with bottled spring water if your water has been “softened” by a water softener (used to treat “hard” water).
A general-purpose fertilizer that is half-strength is applied to the plants once each month. You will see that new flower spikes begin to grow in the summer. In the middle of winter, these pseudobulbs, also known as flower spikes, develop into flower stalks. Only one bloom occurs on each pseudobulb during its existence. From January to March of last year, I had an incredible floral display in the greenhouse with eight or nine plants blooming simultaneously. The plants should be repotted after flowering.
The potting medium was replanted with healthy young plants once it had moistened.
Before the plants were placed in the bucket, the orchid potting media (bark and sphagnum moss) was poured into it and allowed to soak for a number of hours.
Surprisingly, these plants blossom at their finest when they are a little bit root-bound. In the hopes of another spectacular flower display, you leave them root-bound for a second season, but this can lead to an overly root-bound state that can make it difficult for the plant to absorb enough water and nutrients.
I let two of my cymbidium plants to become so overly root-bound that I had to remove the plastic pots from them in order to repotting Cymbidium Orchids. I divided the plants as I was repotting them and tried to see if I could produce new shoots from the back bulbs.
The older, leafless, dormant-appearing bulb-like structures known as Cymbidium back-bulbs are situated behind the larger bulb-like swelling at the base of the plant’s leaves. These back bulbs are used by many gardeners to expand their stock. Wash and dry your back bulbs before placing them in a mixture of leaf mold, sand, and a little potting soil to help them take root. Put the pot containing the bulbs in a plastic bag, keep them wet, and place them in a warm, shady area.
One or two of the bulbs may sprout a green plantlet root in five or six weeks. That plantlet can be separated from the main root when it has three or four leaves and is potted up. Keep it moist and fertilize it. You’ll eventually grow a plant big enough to blossom in around three years.
Steps for Repotting Cymbidiums
The right pot size is crucial. The new grow pot should only be 2-3″ bigger than the old one. This liberates a 1-2″ space for fresh development around the existing root ball. These plants don’t enjoy having damp feet, thus if the grow pot is too big, the roots won’t dry out evenly. Another crucial aspect of the grow pot is its shape. The finest grow containers have a tall, thin design because they promote greater drainage.
Remove the plant’s dead blossom stems. Cut the base of the flower stalk off using a pair of sharp pruners. Additionally, this is an excellent time to get rid of any dead leaves.
Cymbidiums enjoy being crammed into their pots, thus taking the plant out of its current container can be difficult. To get the roots loose, lightly tap the container with a hammer. (Yes, we repot plants using a hammer!)
Take hold of the plant and pull up hard. These plants can survive a severe tug since their leaves are thick and resilient. Use a tool knife to cut the pot apart if the plant and container won’t separate. When working with orchids, always use clean instruments.
Take note of the extensive root system. The current growing media must be removed, which can take some time. The rootball will be more cooperative if you soak it for a few hours (or overnight).
I’ve discovered that it’s not necessarily required to break the roots apart in order to obtain the final bit of bark or moss. Even if you leave some of the previous planting materials behind, these plants have no trouble transitioning to hydroponics.
Wherever it is practicable, separate roots. Act aggressively. With your fingertips, delve in. Continue to dig and pull. Back off if you hear a snapping sound because a root has broken. Chopsticks are a great tool for sifting through the roots.
Wash off all moss and bark from in-between the roots. A garden hose will be necessary for this. Simply said, the pressure of water from the faucet is insufficient to penetrate such dense roots. Sometimes the only access is through severing the rootball.
Removing all decaying roots requires the use of a clean, sharp knife or scissors. Firm and white or pale yellow roots indicate good health. Brown, soft roots indicate decay and ought to be cut off. Root thinning is typical. Be proactive in this situation because new hydroponic roots will regrow soon.
Careful! A root’s white tip indicates active growth. Don’t injure the tips of new growth.
For more washing, return to the sink. Take note of the altered root ball size.
It’s a good idea to remove the sheaths covering the pseudobulbs at this time as well. Bugs enjoy hiding behind them (look for scale).
Select a culture pot that has 1-2″ of space on all sides.
Put pebbles in the culture pot’s bottom.
Place the plant in a culture pot, then add pebbles.
Place the plant in a culture pot, then add pebbles.
Pebbles should be tapped down. Don’t allow any air holes around the root system; be vigorous.
This is our brand-new plant. You’ll notice that we’re not utilizing an outside pot. The outer pot is being replaced with a shallow plastic saucer because this plant will spend the summer outdoors. Raindrops falling outside will fill the attractive outer pot with too much water.