Do you know what to do if your orchid flowers dying? Are you unsure of the best way to restore an orchid’s beauty? This comprehensive list of the most frequent issues with moth orchids, or Phalaenopsis, has been put up by me. The most crucial part is that I’ll outline exactly how you can solve these orchid issues!
And taking care of orchids has a variety of problems! Orchids need the right kind of persistent care to thrive.
I want to go over a thorough list of possible solutions first. But I’ll go into detail about what appropriate orchid care looks like at the end of the article.
The ability to grow and rebloom an orchid is definitely doable! Please bear with me! Several orchid killers, I’ve converted to orchid growers!
Allow me to walk you through the most common orchid problems. My objective is to assist you in solving these orchid issues because the same people have repeatedly come to me with the same issues.
Falling orchid flowers
First Possible Solution: Perhaps Nothing Was Wrong in the First Place!
Many people have come up to me in the past and told me that their orchid flowers are dying.
I then asked them a few questions to try and figure out what was going on. Numerous people have mentioned to me that they bought an orchid, brought it home, and have had it for two to three months.
The orchid flowers then begin to wilt.
I normally reply, “Get a silk plant if you want a flower that lasts forever!” That’s not what I tell folks, ok? But really, what more could you possibly need?
First off, it’s impossible to know how long the orchid flowers have been open when buying an orchid from a retailer.
And there is nothing wrong if your plant was essentially in full bloom when you bought it and the blossoms last an extra 2-3 months at home!
It’s merely a phase in your plant’s natural cycle! Don’t have high hopes for your plant because no blossom will ever last forever. I prefer to get orchids with some unopened buds at the tip when I go orchid shopping.
When you bring them home, this will guarantee that you’ll see a lengthier performance.
Solution #2: Whenever you move an orchid, shield it from temperature extremes.
For those of us who reside in colder climates, getting to our cars requires carrying our orchid outside into the chilly weather, away from the nursery or grocery shop.
If your orchid has some bud explosion, don’t be shocked. In actuality, you should practically anticipate it! Bud blasting is essentially when a flower bud that hasn’t opened just dries up and doesn’t open.
Actually, there is nothing you can do to change it. Other than relocating permanently to a warm region! One day, I want to leave Ohio and live comfortably all year round.
Hence, if your orchid starts to exhibit bud explosion soon after you buy it, keep in mind that it needs time to adapt to your home’s environment. Plants require some time to acclimate.
Your orchid could experience some culture shock when it is moved from the optimum greenhouse environment to the typical household environment. Although it won’t harm it (orchids are far more resilient than people believe), be aware that it will take some time for it to acclimate.
I nearly forgot…
Avoid placing your orchids near heating vents! Particularly when it is in the bud, you don’t want hot, dry air blowing at your orchid. Bud blasting may also result from this.
Sudden changes in light or irrigation can also result in bud blasting. Bud blasting may also be brought on by inconsistent watering practices, especially when an orchid is in bloom.
There Are Orchid Air Roots Everywhere
Leave them as a solution!
Like other epiphytic orchids, Phalaenopsis, or moth orchids, produce a lot of air roots. In the natural world, they photosynthesize, cling to trees, and absorb water using their roots.
Leave them then! Nothing is wrong, and this is completely normal to happen. Even while you should repot your orchid every two to three years, it doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s time. the steps for repotting an orchid
Yellowing Orchid Leaves
The first option: There might be nothing wrong!
Your orchid is probably fine if only one of the lower leaves has turned yellow, the other leaves are all in wonderful shape, and the roots are strong and active.
Plants’ bottom leaves eventually becoming yellow is very typical. It is merely a stage in the growing process.
You might need to modify your watering if your plant is losing more leaves than it is gaining.
Second Option: Change Your Watering
Similar to the problem with wrinkly leaves, under and overwatering can both result in yellow leaves. To find out what to check for, go back up to the “Why Are My Orchid Leaves Becoming Wrinkled” section.
Why Does My Orchid Have White Fuzzy Things On It?
Very likely mealy bugs! Although mealy bugs have a rapid rate of reproduction, controlling them on orchids is usually not too difficult.
It is likely that you have mealy bugs if you notice white cottony lumps on the leaves. Seeing sticky dots on the leaves of the orchids is another sign of mealy bugs. This is due to the fact that mealy bugs will emit a sticky substance known as honeydew.
Solution: Use rubbing alcohol to remove the mealy bugs.
The American Orchid Society claims that using rubbing alcohol is a successful method for getting rid of mealy bugs, scale, and even aphids.
Using your finger, a little cloth, or a piece of paper towel, first clear away all the pests’ apparent masses.
After that, gently clean the affected areas with a cotton ball or paper towel that has been dipped in isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). It will be fine to use 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol, which is widely accessible.
Dry and Shriveled Orchid Roots
Water them is the answer!
Under the potting material, do your orchid roots look to be beautiful and plump and healthy, but the exposed air roots are shriveled and dry?
The most likely cause is that you are neglecting to water the air roots. Make careful to water your plants well, even the exposed air roots, or they may shrivel and die.
The roots of a healthy orchid should be silvery in color, spherical, and swollen. They ought to turn greenish when they are exposed to water.
Not Blooming Orchid
Method 1: Increase the light for your orchid
One of the most frequent orchid issues that individuals have brought up to me is this one, and I have been able to offer assistance to each and every one of them.
Lack of light is the main cause of your orchid’s failure to bloom.
The leaves of an orchid that is not receiving enough light may be an extremely dark green color. The majority of the time, orchids in the home should be cultivated directly in front of a window.
The only situation where this wouldn’t apply, in my opinion, is if you have numerous skylights in your home. It is acceptable to temporarily exhibit your orchid while it is in full bloom. I constantly do this, and it won’t hurt.
Remember to put your plant back in the window once the blossoms have faded!
I keep almost all of my orchids directly in front of a window that faces east. They get some morning sun as well as bright indirect light for the majority of the day. Phalaenopsis orchids can tolerate the morning sun without any problems.
On the other hand, you don’t want your moth orchid, or Phalaenopsis, to burn in the sun all day.
Option #2: Alternate the temperature between day and night
You can try lowering the temperature at night if your plant appears to be in excellent health and is receiving enough light, but it simply won’t bloom.
If you can leave your Phalaenopsis outdoors for the summer, you can accomplish this the easiest.
In the late fall or early winter, a flower spike will develop on many moth orchids. Of course, the parentage of the specific hybrid you have will determine this.
But make sure to bring your orchid inside again before the nighttime low falls below about 55F.
You could even put your orchid planter extremely close to a window if you don’t have access to an outdoor area. I’ve done this before and it worked. I carried a moth orchid to the basement since it did not blossom.
I made a window contact with the orchid pot (being careful not to have any leaves touch the window). This caused the temperature to fall enough in the evening to cause the plant to bloom.